Gene Parsons Dobro StringBender
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Lee Rider
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Gene Parsons Dobro StringBender
Gene called me today to do an over the phone demo of the first prototype BroBender, a StringBender for the dobro. He put it on the second string, lowering it a full step or you can stop at the half step for a minor chord. It sounds way cool. I'll go by tomorrow and pick it up, woodshed with it some. Very excited to give it a try. Will hopefully get it patented and into production soon! Stay Tuned!
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Lee Rider
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Michael Maddex
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Lee Rider
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Michael: We are in the process of patenting it and are not ready to post photos. It will be a lanyard to actuate it so you can stand and utilize a strap as is standard in dobro playing.
Once we get the patent applied for stuff done we will be putting out more info.
I'll probably put out some audio once I figure the thing out. Going to pick it up today.
Thanks
Lee Rider
Stringbender Musical Instruments
Once we get the patent applied for stuff done we will be putting out more info.
I'll probably put out some audio once I figure the thing out. Going to pick it up today.
Thanks
Lee Rider
Stringbender Musical Instruments
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Michael Maddex
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Lee Rider
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Alan Brookes
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Lee Rider
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Michael Maddex
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Marty Broussard
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Cool stuff. Like to see pics when they're available.
RETIRED
Former steel guitarist for Tracy Byrd & The Byrd Dawgs, Mark Chesnut & The New South Band, Mark Nesler & Texas Tradition, Wayne Toups & ZydeCajun, Belton Richard & The Musical Aces
"Technique is really the elimination of the unnecessary..it is a constant effort to avoid any personal impediment or obstacle to achieve the smooth flow of energy and intent" Yehudi Menuhin
Former steel guitarist for Tracy Byrd & The Byrd Dawgs, Mark Chesnut & The New South Band, Mark Nesler & Texas Tradition, Wayne Toups & ZydeCajun, Belton Richard & The Musical Aces
"Technique is really the elimination of the unnecessary..it is a constant effort to avoid any personal impediment or obstacle to achieve the smooth flow of energy and intent" Yehudi Menuhin
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Paul Honeycutt
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Michael Maddex
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Lee, how is this project coming along? Do you have an acoustic prototype type yet? How about the pedals?
I am really interested in a dobro or other acoustic lap guitar with a one or two pedals for raises and/or lowers. Jimmy Hudson is building some nice looking reso consoles and Jackson is offering the Slide King line. Before pursuing either of those possibilities further, I would like to see what you and Gene are cooking up, especially if could be an add-on. similar to the B-Bender, for an existing instrument.
I have got a reso with a Bigsby Palm Pedal on it and I just can't seem to get used to using it. I'm sure that I need more practice with that thing, but I also think that pedals are what I will want in the long run.
I hope this post didn't run on too long, but I wanted you to know where I'm coming from. I'm looking forward to your reply.
I am really interested in a dobro or other acoustic lap guitar with a one or two pedals for raises and/or lowers. Jimmy Hudson is building some nice looking reso consoles and Jackson is offering the Slide King line. Before pursuing either of those possibilities further, I would like to see what you and Gene are cooking up, especially if could be an add-on. similar to the B-Bender, for an existing instrument.
I have got a reso with a Bigsby Palm Pedal on it and I just can't seem to get used to using it. I'm sure that I need more practice with that thing, but I also think that pedals are what I will want in the long run.
I hope this post didn't run on too long, but I wanted you to know where I'm coming from. I'm looking forward to your reply.
"For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." -- Arthur C. Clarke
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Lee Rider
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Still working on the dobro bender. We do have a prototype, but still working out some of the geometry and spring tensions. Gene has been pretty busy with guitar installs so it is going a bit slower than we anticipated, but we want to do it right. Not sure when we will have it to production. Stay tuned!
Bowman SD10 push pull 3x5, Modified Hudson PedalBro, Sarno Tonic preamp, Furlong split, Altec 418B in Standel Custom 15, '67 Showman with D-130F in cabinet, Ganz Straight Ahead, custom Wolfe 6 string dobro, '52 Gibson Century 6, Gallagher OM with acoustic StringBender, '67 Martin D-35s (#3).
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Alan Brookes
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Lee, no doubt you've seen my post about the Resonator Guitar I've just finished building, into which I've built a modified Duesenberg Multibender.
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... highlight=

One of the things you have to be really aware of when making a palm lever unit that can be fitted to an existing resonator guitar is that any change in the angle of the bridge or the location of the string anchorage alters the vibration characteristics of the guitar. A resonator guitar is not built to take the downward pressure of the palm levers, and it usually causes cabinet drop, making the instrument difficult if not impossible to keep in tune. Also, on any instrument where you change the tension of the strings while you're playing you need a roller nut, or tension will build up at the nut which will equalise while you're playing and, again, throw it out of tune. For this reason I designed my resonator guitar from the ground up to accept the palm levers, and I built an aluminium bowl to support the spider to prevent these problems. You'll notice that I didn't use a tailpiece. The weight of the strings is on the spider, to which the Multibender is bolted securely, which is why the spider needed extra support.
I'm not trying to dampen your project, which I'm very interested in; just trying to make you aware of some problems you might encounter, depending a lot on which model of guitar you fit the unit to.
By the way, I tuned the guitar to the regular Dobro open G tuning, which means that any Dobro player could immediately play it. By depressing all four palm levers you get a C chord. But you don't have to depress them all at the same time, of course.
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... highlight=

One of the things you have to be really aware of when making a palm lever unit that can be fitted to an existing resonator guitar is that any change in the angle of the bridge or the location of the string anchorage alters the vibration characteristics of the guitar. A resonator guitar is not built to take the downward pressure of the palm levers, and it usually causes cabinet drop, making the instrument difficult if not impossible to keep in tune. Also, on any instrument where you change the tension of the strings while you're playing you need a roller nut, or tension will build up at the nut which will equalise while you're playing and, again, throw it out of tune. For this reason I designed my resonator guitar from the ground up to accept the palm levers, and I built an aluminium bowl to support the spider to prevent these problems. You'll notice that I didn't use a tailpiece. The weight of the strings is on the spider, to which the Multibender is bolted securely, which is why the spider needed extra support.
I'm not trying to dampen your project, which I'm very interested in; just trying to make you aware of some problems you might encounter, depending a lot on which model of guitar you fit the unit to.
By the way, I tuned the guitar to the regular Dobro open G tuning, which means that any Dobro player could immediately play it. By depressing all four palm levers you get a C chord. But you don't have to depress them all at the same time, of course.
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Chris Templeton
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Yes Alan, ALL string bender(s) on an acoustic instruments that I have seen cause tuning problems for the unbent strings.
I've never tried it, but I think graphite neck reinforcement of some kind might be helpfu with this issue unless some kind off opposing force can bring the non-bent strings back into tune.
I've never tried it, but I think graphite neck reinforcement of some kind might be helpfu with this issue unless some kind off opposing force can bring the non-bent strings back into tune.
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Lee Rider
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Thanks Alan; we are pulling from the headstock so no problems associated with the cone. Also actuated by the strap like the original StringBender.
Bowman SD10 push pull 3x5, Modified Hudson PedalBro, Sarno Tonic preamp, Furlong split, Altec 418B in Standel Custom 15, '67 Showman with D-130F in cabinet, Ganz Straight Ahead, custom Wolfe 6 string dobro, '52 Gibson Century 6, Gallagher OM with acoustic StringBender, '67 Martin D-35s (#3).
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Lee Rider
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Here is a quick video of the prototype on my Beard Road-O-Phonic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0FSjkGT19A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0FSjkGT19A
Bowman SD10 push pull 3x5, Modified Hudson PedalBro, Sarno Tonic preamp, Furlong split, Altec 418B in Standel Custom 15, '67 Showman with D-130F in cabinet, Ganz Straight Ahead, custom Wolfe 6 string dobro, '52 Gibson Century 6, Gallagher OM with acoustic StringBender, '67 Martin D-35s (#3).
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Alan Brookes
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Me too, but I haven't encountered any problems of that nature yet. I think that the fact that I expected the problem before I started and so designed the guitar to accomodate the extra downward pressure has worked.Chris Templeton wrote:Yes Alan, ALL string bender(s) on an acoustic instruments that I have seen cause tuning problems for the unbent strings...
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Chris Templeton
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Do you mean upward pressure?
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Alan Brookes
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No, when you press the levers down you produce downward pressure on the body of the guitar, which, if you don't make allowances for in the design of the guitar, can cause the table (the top) of the guitar to sink a little, creating what's known as "cabinet drop".
The way I've designed my guitar, the downward pressure is taken by the bowl on which the spider is resting around its perimeter, and transferred to the bracing glued to the back of the guitar. But if you just put a palm lever unit on top of the spider of a resonator guitar which was not designed for it, you do run the risk of the top of the guitar sinking, which is what most people who've tried it have found in the past. Since a guitarist could come up with any one of hundreds of different designs of existing resonator guitars, designing an add-on unit that will work with all of them and be capable of being taken off if you want to restore the guitar to its original configuration, is an enormously difficult task.
Lee says that he will be pulling from the headstock, which should overcome the problems. I shall be interested to see how he does it, because the headstock is at the opposite end of the guitar to where the palm levers would normally be, and he'll be activating it via a pull on the strap, which means that he cannot have several different levers working individually.

Gene Parson's unit works completely different to the Multibender. The unit is usually buried inside a solid electric guitar. A Dobro has a lot more room inside, so putting one into a Dobro would seem to be possible, but getting it to pull complete chords doesn't seem possible.
The way I've designed my guitar, the downward pressure is taken by the bowl on which the spider is resting around its perimeter, and transferred to the bracing glued to the back of the guitar. But if you just put a palm lever unit on top of the spider of a resonator guitar which was not designed for it, you do run the risk of the top of the guitar sinking, which is what most people who've tried it have found in the past. Since a guitarist could come up with any one of hundreds of different designs of existing resonator guitars, designing an add-on unit that will work with all of them and be capable of being taken off if you want to restore the guitar to its original configuration, is an enormously difficult task.
Lee says that he will be pulling from the headstock, which should overcome the problems. I shall be interested to see how he does it, because the headstock is at the opposite end of the guitar to where the palm levers would normally be, and he'll be activating it via a pull on the strap, which means that he cannot have several different levers working individually.

Gene Parson's unit works completely different to the Multibender. The unit is usually buried inside a solid electric guitar. A Dobro has a lot more room inside, so putting one into a Dobro would seem to be possible, but getting it to pull complete chords doesn't seem possible.
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Chris Templeton
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I think we are talking about the same thing. I just am referring to the "upward pressure" on the neck created by by increased tension on one or more strings, causing the rest of the strings to "drop".
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Lee Rider
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We are only bending one string from the headstock utilizing the strap. If more than one string is bent then we will utilize pedals.
Bowman SD10 push pull 3x5, Modified Hudson PedalBro, Sarno Tonic preamp, Furlong split, Altec 418B in Standel Custom 15, '67 Showman with D-130F in cabinet, Ganz Straight Ahead, custom Wolfe 6 string dobro, '52 Gibson Century 6, Gallagher OM with acoustic StringBender, '67 Martin D-35s (#3).
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Alan Brookes
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Chris Templeton wrote:I think we are talking about the same thing. I just am referring to the "upward pressure" on the neck created by by increased tension on one or more strings, causing the rest of the strings to "drop".

The neck on my instrument has a rectangular cross-section, and is more than twice as thick as a rounded neck. It's not going to bend under the tension of just six strings. I've built lap steels with as many as 16 strings with no problem of body warping. The main thing that influences the exactness of notes, other than where you place the tone bar, is the weight of the tone bar on the strings. The mere act of placing a tone bar on the strings pushes them down, and you have to add some pressure to that or your notes will rattle. No-one seems to ever mention this.
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Alan Brookes
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As good as all these innovations are, the only real way to get all the facilities of a pedal steel guitar in an acoustic instrument is to build an acoustic pedal steel guitar, with or without a resonator. Then the main problem becomes silencing the mechanism, the pedals and the rods and bellcranks, which are not normally heard when you use a magnetic pickup.
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