Emmons push pull 6th string RKL cannot lower to sufficiently to reach F♯

[Nathan Eikelberg]

I have a 1980 SD10 that was overhauled by Billy Knowles just prior to me purchasing it about 4 years ago. I say that not to call Billy's work into question, but instead to establish that it was in perfect working condition at that time, so I am certain that the issue I am now encountering was cause solely by my actions alone!

My RKL is as follows: 1st string: raises F♯ to G♯; 2nd string: raises D♯ to E; 6th string: lowers G♯ to F♯. I recently switched string brands and when attempting to dial things back in, am unable get my 6th string lower to bottom out on the endplate stop screw. In fact, backing the screw out all the way sill won't allow the string to lower sufficiently. Nothing obvious appears to be preventing it (other than the RKL lever's "travel" adjustment thumbscrew), so before I go digging myself into a deeper hole tinkering with things I wanted to ask the question in hopes that there's something I'm overlooking. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Mike DiAlesandro]

Sounds like since the string change, your 6th string may not be the same gauge. Probably your collar on your B pedal 6th string doesn't have enough slack and is catching before the string hits the F#, due to the extra travel need with the different gauge string

I would check this first, and replace the string with the original gauge if found to be different.

[Pat Chong]

I'd agree with Mike, that's what it sounds like. You might have (unknowingly?) replaced the plain 6th with a wound string. 6th strings come plain or wound, depending on the maker. The wound strings have a smaller core, and smaller strings require more travel to raise or drop notes than a larger string would need. Hope that helps ... Luck on your repair.

[Nathan Eikelberg]

Thanks Mike & Pat, you are correct. While the gauge was the same, the 6th string in the new set is wound. Based on your assessment I attempted to adjust the B pedal in conjunction with the RKL and cannot get both to work in concert. I think the easiest solution at this point is to scrap the new set of strings and revert to the ones I typically use – so much for trying trying out something new. Knowing that, does this indicate anything about the setup (e.g. should either scenario—plain or wound—work if the steel is optimally set-up, or is it simply a physical limit of the mechanics)?

[Pat Chong]

I have read (in past postings about this subject) that on some pedal steels, there may be mechanical limits. But sorry, I'm not familiar with the Emmons system.

However, you can just get a plain string and replace the wound one, as Mike mentioned, to remedy the situation.

[Tony Edwards]

I had this same problem with a Sho-Bud I once owned. I had changed strings, and had put a set of Ernie Ball’s on which had a wound sixth that would not drop to the needed level. I just had the sixth string changed to a flat one and it immediately fixed the problem.

[Tucker Jackson]

Most packaged string sets don't have the exact gauges I use, so I always buy the set that's closest, but then get several extra single strings. You can get single strings in most places, including the Forum Store.

https://steelguitarshopper.com/
.

[Nathan Eikelberg]

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply. I changed the strings out and problem solved. I created my own headache all for the sake of using up a one-off set that I had sitting around from a few years ago. Fortunately I learned something along the way. And now that I'm back in tune, I'll be sure to be more conscious of it in the future.